I have reached the point in my climbing to get serous about shoes. I started off with a pair of Evolv DEFY VTRs which are a great beginner shoe but when getting a bit more technical falls short or falls off the wall. Last night I met up with JR at the EMS in SoHo to take a look at and try on some more performance oriented climbing shoes.
The Sportiva Katanas won out over the La Sportiva Miura VS and the 5.10 Team. The Teams look like a great dedicated bouldering shoes. If I were looking for just a shoe to boulder in these would be high on my list. The spending hours on my feet comfort factor lacks with these though and I'm looking for a good all arounder. The Miuras are great however the sizing for my feet seemed off. They went from being too big and the next half size down too small. I mean painfully too small. I even tried EMS's practice wall and my feet were on fire. I put on the same size Katanas and bingo that did the trick.
They still hurt but not as bad. My toe knuckles are tight agents the front so the fit is right. I tried them on the practice wall and it was amazing. I am warming them up now for tonight. I'm sure the Miuras would stretch out fine but when it's right it's right. I'm looking forward to tonight at BKB!
I'll write a full review in a couple of months. Stay tuned.
Knuckle bumps!
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